Aquarium Shopping Checklist

Aquarium Checklist
__ aquarium
__ stand
__ hood/lid
__ light
__ filtration system
__ heater (wattage:__________)
__ thermometer
__ substrate
__ fish net
__ water conditioner
__ test kit - ammonia
__ test kit - nitrite
__ test kit - pH
__ siphon
__ algae scrubber
__ water bucket - 5 gallon
__ reference book(s)
__ decorations

Recommendations
Aquarium - Larger is better, but keep in mind the space available. A 55-gallon tank is not practical for a dormitory room. However, almost anyone can find a place for a 20-gallon tank. Avoid tall thin tanks and stick with shorter longer tank, as they provide more swimming space and surface area for air exchange. Glass aquariums are my preference, however acrylic tanks weigh less and because they don't break, are preferable for children. Remember that acrylic tanks require support along the entire bottom surface, not just the edges.

Stand - Aquariums are heavy, figure 10 pounds per gallon of water, and plan accordingly. A particle board bookcase is not sturdy enough to hold anything more than a very small aquarium. Stands can be pricey, but if you are handy with a hammer and saw you can make your own for a fraction of the store price. Check the reference links for do it yourself stand plans.

Lid/Hood- Tanks may be sold with lid separate from the light, or the lid and light may be joined into one unit referred to as the "hood". The lid portion covers the tank and serves to prevent fish from jumping out of the tank, reduce evaporation, and protect the light from getting wet. If the lid is combined with the light, it is often made of plastic, which is less expensive, weighs less, and is not as easy to break.

Glass lids are easier to clean, provide a tighter cover, and allow more outside light to enter the tank. I recommend getting a glass lid if you have a choice.

Light - Although the light is often packaged with the lid, you may have the option to purchase the light separately. Light options include, incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, mercury vapor, and metal halide. The best option for a beginner is the fluorescent light, as it costs less to run and is much cooler. Ask if the bulb is included with the light fixture, and if it isn't be sure to purchase one.

Filtration System - This is a critical piece of equipment. Although there are many styles available, I strongly recommend a biowheel system. The size of the filter must match the size of the tank. Choose a filter with a flow rate that filters all the water in your tank at least four times each hour. For example, a 20-gallon tank should have a filter with a flow rate of at least 80 gallons per hour (GPH). When it's borderline, always move to a higher flow rate.

Heater- Most fish require a temperature of about 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Unless your house remains in that range all the time, you'll need a heater. Aquarium heaters come as hang-on-the-tank or submersible models, and may have a numerical setting or simply an up and down setting. Go for the submersible with a numerical setting. It will cost more, but is worth it. As for size, a rule of thumb for wattage is to use 5 watts per gallon for smaller tanks and 3 watts per gallon for larger tanks. However the room temperature does affect the wattage needed. If in doubt, refer to the heater guide under the reference links.

Thermometer - The liquid crystal stick-on thermometers are inexpensive, easy to read, and generally accurate enough for general use. If you plan to breed fish, or keep delicate fish, you should opt for an thermometer that goes in the water.

Substrate- Generally a small, smooth, dark colored gravel is preferable. Get one pound of gravel for each gallon of water.

Net - Choose a medium sized, good quality net. Better yet, get two nets. Catching fish is easier with two nets, and it's always wise to have a spare net on hand. You never know when you may tear or misplace one of your nets.

Water Conditioner - Unless the water is aged it must be dechlorinated before fish can be safely added. Choose a product that will take care of chlorine, ammonia, and heavy metals.

Test Kits - Testing water in a newly set up tank is critical. You should have kits to test for ammonia, Nitrite, and pH. Multi test strips will do as long as you follow manufacturers directions and store them properly.

Recently in-tank testing monitors have become popular. These are placed inside the tank against the aquarium wall, and continuously monitor the water chemistry. Generally these products are only good for a month or two, so take care to replace them regularly.

Siphon - A siphon tool is necessary to vacuum the gravel and to do water changes. There are simple types that use gravity to siphon, and more sophisticated models that use water pressure from your tap. If you can afford it, purchase the tap run models, as they are much easier to use.

Algae Scrubber - It's a fact of life that algae will grow in an aquarium eventually. An algae pad or scraper is an important maintenance item. Another option is the algae magnet. You'll pay a little more, but the convenience is worth it.

Water Bucket - Doesn't everyone have one? Yes, but if it has had soap or other chemicals in it, the residue could be lethal to fish. Purchase a brand new one and label it for "Fish ONLY", then follow those instructions and use it only for aquarium maintenance.

Reference Books - Pick up a good all-purpose reference book or two to complete the package. 101 Essential Tips: Aquarium Fish is a good one, as are several others. For experiences fish keepers a fish atlas is a good option.

Gift Certificate - Last but not least, if you are giving the aquarium as a gift, include a gift certificate so the recipient can get the fish, food, and decorations of their choice.